{"id":2429,"date":"2019-08-20T08:00:20","date_gmt":"2019-08-20T07:00:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.secretescapes.com\/magazine-uk\/?p=2429"},"modified":"2021-03-03T16:53:17","modified_gmt":"2021-03-03T16:53:17","slug":"cycle-the-city-an-alternative-guide-to-amsterdam","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/magazine.secretescapes.com\/escapist\/cycle-the-city-an-alternative-guide-to-amsterdam\/","title":{"rendered":"Cycle the city: an alternative guide to Amsterdam"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Herring sandwiches, expressionist style and post-industrial cultural hubs \u2013 this is not your typical Amsterdam. Do as the locals do and explore the city on two wheels, with this, your alternative guide to the city. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Most hotels offer bike hire, with plenty of hire shops to try too. The city is covered in cycle lanes, making it super safe; plus it\u2019s one of the flattest places on earth, so no need to break into a sweat. Onwards!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We start our cycle expedition at Wildschut. A stalwart grand caf\u00e9 in Oud Zuid, Wildschut is an Amsterdam-School marvel, an expressionist-cum-art-deco vision of red brick and timeless grandeur. The whole junction is flanked by these matching brick-expressionist projects. But enough of that; time for coffee. There\u2019s a really good Dutch lunch menu here with decent prices, but hold off for now; there\u2019s plenty of food stops coming up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Albert Cuypmarkt over in De Pijp is the busiest and most electric market in the city. Between cheap clothes and cheap gadgets, vendors shout their wares in a comedic fanfare that unsurprisingly you\u2019ll understand little of unless your Dutch is adequate \u2014 just smirk along with the locals and you won\u2019t give anything away. We\u2019re here for one thing though: food. Seek out raw-herring sandwiches, a tray of kibbling, fresh stroopwafels and more \u2014 you\u2019re cycling, so indulge yourself in gut-busting Dutch treats. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the market ends by the canalside, a nostalgic landmark appears across the water. You can\u2019t really miss Brouwerij \u2018t IJ. The iconic windmill, the tallest in the Netherlands, has become a calling card for this stalwart brewery, emblazoned on all their bottles the world over. Hoppy IPAs and heady Tripels offer ample refreshment on the outdoor terrace, before it\u2019s time to pedal to our next stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Portuguese Synagogue has been the centre of Jewish life in Amsterdam for centuries.
\nWhen first opened in 1675, it was the largest synagogue in Europe, home to the Sephardic community who had fled persecution in Iberia during the Inquisition nearly two centuries before. There\u2019s an understated beauty to the place, with its vast columns and heavy candelabras, neat wooden pews and bare walls. Real treasures lie in the Ets Haim library, the world\u2019s oldest, still-operating Jewish library. The collection is unparalleled, having survived the Inquisition and 20th century fascism. Your ticket also includes entry to the Jood Historisch Museum, where you can find out more about the Jewish community of Amsterdam. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just across the street, neat rows of white tents spill curious goods onto the road; this is Waterloopleinmarkt, Amsterdam\u2019s coveted flea market. Get your bargain-hunt sensors on \u2014 treasures lie ahead. Cheap vintage clothes, odd Dutch curios and, admittedly, an assortment of tat. Pick your antique, bungee strap it onto your rear rack, and hit the pedals for our next stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Okay. So here\u2019s a classic. It would be a shame to not at least cycle past this bountiful Dam icon; the heaven-scented, irresistibly colourful Bloemenmarkt. Lining the canal, endless bunches of flowers are sold from stilted shacks, a tradition going back centuries. Tulips are the go-to when in season; better still, buy a bag of bulbs for the allotment and bring a spot of Dutch colour to your home. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A little deeper into the heart of the canal ring now. The Oudemanhuispoort Book Market is a hub for the city\u2019s academics, intellectuals, and all-round clever-clogs. Hidden under the arches of the university building, thick tomes and dusty novels are piled high. And there\u2019s plenty to find in english if you don\u2019t fancy learning Dutch; it\u2019s a rather serene scene perfect for quick respite amongst the bustle of the city\u2019s canalside trails. So, grab yourself a holiday read before we make for our next destination.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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An inconspicuous alleyway in the heart of Amsterdam\u2019s infamous Red Light District hides a heady relic. Wynand Fockink is one of the oldest proeflokaals in the city, a Dutch tasting tavern that has been distilling its own jenever, on site, since 1679. Dark oak shelves bend under the weight of a colourful host of liquors; the barkeep will gladly let you try a few before you settle on one, accompanied by a short history of the bar and the spirit. Your tipple will be poured into an iconic curved glass, right to the brim, forcing you to stoop and sip before you pick it up. Just go for the one though, as we\u2019re off for another drink.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cafe Brandon, one of many a fine traditional brown cafe \u2013 a kind of Dutch pub \u2013 is a rather unique spot. Sat on a corner with the canal running down one side, the cafe is a veritable timewarp. The same couple ran the bar for over 40 years, shutting up shop in the 80s. 20 years later, the new owners opened the doors, and changed absolutely nothing. There\u2019s still a portrait of the original owners hanging in one of the lounges. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Two bridges down and two canals over sits another picturesque brown cafe, only this time we\u2019re not here to drink; apologies. Cafe Papeneiland is famed for its apple pie. Lauded as the best in the city and attracting celebs the world-over (they seem to be particularly smitten with Bill Clinton\u2019s visit), take a seat in one of its delft-tiled, dark-oak cubby holes. The homely interior is pretty special; be sure to have a good gander (it\u2019s been like this since 1642) between greedy helpings of pie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Work off those extra sweet calories with a cycle. Dashing through the corner of Westerpark (which hosts a cultural centre cloaked by a turn-of-the-century industrial complex) head for that other Amsterdam School project: Het Schip. \u2018The Ship\u2019 was a social housing project designed by Michel de Klerk in 1921 for railway employees; it is often referred to as a worker\u2019s temple, owing to its lavish yet eminently-practical expressionist style. It\u2019s focal point is a mast-like tower, with wings falling away to give the impression of a looming hull. Cycle around the estate and marvel at the details that pop from its fluid and rounded exterior. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dinner. A short hop from Het Schip over by the harbour lie two remarkable restaurants. The choice is yours; luckily they\u2019re right next to each other. Pont 13 is a permanently moored and converted IJ ferry from the 30s, now serving gastro-pub delights in a rather special setting; think hearty steaks and gut-busting burgers. If that\u2019s too uncouth for you, pop-over to REM Eiland. You can\u2019t miss it; it\u2019s fire-red exterior looms high over the pontoon, a curious spectacle. The structure, once lashed by waves in the North Sea, was a 60s rig used for pirate radio (cool!) but now houses a fine-dining restaurant. If the weather\u2019s good, go al fresco, and enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail at the bar \u2013 it\u2019s on the helipad, straight up the stairs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the sun sinks, you could skip a pontoon over and take the free IJ ferry from here to NDSM. At the northern water\u2019s edge, a post-industrial collective of street art and trendy bars make for a backdrop a world away from the UNESCO-treasure Canal Ring. After a swift one, the ferry can take you back into the heart of the city, with the lights of Amsterdam\u2019s post-modern docklands stretching illuminated tendrils across the water. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s it! A whistlestop tour, but one that shows a side to the city you might otherwise have missed. And who doesn\u2019t like apple pie?<\/p>\n\n\n\n\t\t