Lose yourself in the vibrant streets of Naples. The capital city and beating heart of Campania is a destination like no other, offering a mix of authentic charm, rich culture and unrivalled culinary delights. Let our insider’s guide be your key to unveiling the beauty of this bigger-than-life city: get the scoop on what to do, what to see and what to eat in Naples (and discover its fascinating traditions and beliefs!)
Castel dell’Ovo, Naples / GettyImages
Lungomare di Santa Lucia
Start your day early in Via Partenope, before the crowds hit the streets. You’re on the boardwalk known as the Lungomare di Santa Lucia, staring at one of the most picturesque views that the city has to offer: the majestic Vesuvius salutes you in the distance and the vibrant blue waters of the Gulf of Naples stretch out before your eyes, with the enchanting Sorrento coast sitting pretty on the horizon. In front of you is the peninsula of Santa Lucia and Castel dell’Ovo (“Egg Castle”), under which, according to the legend, the Latin poet Virgilio hid an egg. This is the perfect place to start your day, taking in the beauty of this must-see location in its quiet moments, enjoying a mindful moment to yourself.
No need to worry if you can’t make it there in the morning, the area truly comes alive in the later hours of the day, so why not marvel at the sunset as you enjoy an al fresco meal in one of the delicious pizzerias on the boardwalk? Special mentions: Gino Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Mare, of the renowned Sorbillo family, and the trendy Pizzeria Errico Porzio Lungomare, famous for the viral and compelling flavour combinations.
Piazza del Plebiscito, Naples / GettyImages
Piazza del Plebiscito
Once you’ve taken it all in, head up to Piazza del Plebiscito, this grandiose square is the biggest in Naples and one of its symbols, hosting cultural events throughout the year. Framed by semi-circular colonnades, the square hosts the neoclassical Basilica Reale Pontificia San Francesco Da Paola and, directly across from it, the Royal Palace, once the residence of the Bourbons and the Savoys and now a museum. In the centre there are the equestrian statues of Charles of Bourbon and Ferdinand I. Want to do it like the locals? Legend has it that once a month the Queen Margherita of Savoy granted one of her prisoners a chance to save their life, on the condition that they passed a test: crossing the square blindfolded starting from the door of the Royal Palace and making it past the two equestrian statues. It is said that no one has ever managed to accomplish this feat due to the Queen’s curse, so why not try it out for yourself?
Galleria Umberto I, Naples / GettyImages
Piazza Trieste e Trento
Just a few steps away is Gran Caffè Gambrinus, an historical coffee house dating back to 1860. Through the years, this literary café of European inspiration has welcomed intellectuals, politicians and businessmen alike, among its customers feature the internationally famous Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway and Jean-Paul Sartre. Naples makes an art out of coffee making, with the city being renowned for its coffee culture and appreciation, so why not treat yourself to an aromatic espresso as you take in the history and charm of this unique location?
Not into coffee? You can find another speciality just across the street, in Piazza Trieste e Trento. The Acquafrescaio is a stand selling the famous Limonata a cosce aperte (“Lemonade with open thighs”), a lemonade served with a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda. Don’t let it catch you off guard! This treat instantly foams up, so try your best to prevent it from spilling all over you. Hence the open thighs…
Closeby, you can check out the famous Galleria Umberto I before heading down to Castel Nuovo for a visit. The latter is an imposing Mediaeval fortress which hosts a civic art museum and a chapel. You can then head back up through Via Santa Brigida and stop at Pasticceria Poppella to try the delicious fiocco di neve (“snowflake”), a typical sweet pastry with a ricotta-based filling. Simply delicious!
Neapolitan Sfogliatelle, Naples / GettyImages
Via Toledo
Lively and chaotic, Via Toledo is Naples’ main shopping street and your first taste of many of the city’s culinary delights. Treat yourself to a pizza fritta at Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo, pick up a sfogliatella at La Sfogliatella di Mary, or watch your food come down in a basket at Passione di Sofì, a charming two-story shop where you can try specialities like the cuoppo (a paper cone filled with fried street food), the montanara (a fried pizza dough topped with cheese, tomato and fresh basil) or the frittatina (fried pasta filled with meat, peas and bechamel). Take your pick and enjoy as you stroll along the streets. An unmissable sight is Toledo’s underground station, designed by Catalan architect Óscar Tusquets Blanca, which was regarded by The Telegraph as the most impressive underground station in Europe for its exceptional artistic design.
From the Augusteo station in Via Toledo you can also catch the funicular to the Vomero, which offers scenic hilltop views of the city of Naples, its bay and Mount Vesuvius. If you look closely, you might notice Spaccanapoli, the perfectly linear street which splits Naples in two halves. Around you is the mediaeval fortress Castel Sant’Elmo and the Certosa di San Martino. Before you are the 414 steps of the Pedamentina, which lead back into the city.
Spanish Quarters, Naples / GettyImages
Spanish Quarters
Fall in love with the unique charm of Naples in its historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with a distinct and vibrant energy. For your exploration, the best advice is to wander through the streets freely, getting lost in the folkloristic appeal. Be sure to check out Via San Gregorio Armeno, filled with shops specialising in nativity scene figurines. Keep your eyes peeled to spot politicians, religious figures, members of the royal family and all kinds of celebrities! The area is steeped with artisan workshops which specialise in handcrafting nativity scenes and symbols of Naples, among many you’ll see the cornicello – a red horn charm believed to ward off malocchio, a malevolent gaze causing misfortune – and the character of Pulcinella, whose statue you might stumble upon as you walk in the streets. Another gem is the Ospedale delle Bambole, a charming workshop founded in 1800 which specialises in antique dolls, restoring materials like porcelain, wax, and cloth.
Get romantic at Vicolo dell’amore, an alley adorned with red hearts featuring love-themed lyrics, head to Cappella Sansevero to admire the veiled marble of the Cristo Velato, and stop at Santa Chiara to enjoy a moment of quiet in its breathtaking majolica cloister.
When in Naples, pizza a portafoglio is a must-try, you could pick one up at the Antica Pizzeria e Friggitoria Di Matteo or opt for a cuzzetiello con ragù e polpette at Tandem, a hollowed-out bread filled with ragù sauce and meatballs.
Exploring the local street art scene is a unique key to understanding the city’s history and culture, with themes ranging from religion, to football, to political statements. Many notable artists have chosen Naples to be their open-air canvas, so prepare to be captivated by Banksy’s iconic Madonna with a Pistol, Jorit’s stunning portrayal of San Gennaro (the city’s patron saint), and by the striking collection of artworks scattered throughout the city.
Pizza a portafoglio, Naples / GettyImages
Underground Naples
Travel back in history with a guided tour of Napoli Sotterranea: descend beneath the city’s bustling streets to discover the network of cisterns and narrow passageways below street level, used by the Neapolitans for shelter during World War II. The tunnels date back to Greek and Roman times and have been developed throughout the centuries by the civilisations that have inhabited the region. A tour of Underground Naples is an unforgettable experience that provides unique insight into the city’s evolution and perseverance. Just make sure to pack comfortable trainers!
Catacombe di San Gennaro, Naples / GettyImages
Cultural pursuits
If you wish to venture outside the centre, consider exploring the vast art collection of Museo Capodimonte, which houses works by Caravaggio, Michelangelo, Botticelli, Titian, and Raphael. Love a bit of greenery? Surrounding the art museum, the Real Bosco covers 134 hectares and offers nature aplenty and stunning panoramic views of Naples and its bay.
History lovers, on the other hand, should not miss the chance to visit the Catacombe di San Gennaro, an underground network of catacombs dating back to 2nd century A.D. Once a Christian burial place, the catacombs offer a fascinating glimpse into the city’s religious heritage.
Gulf of Naples, Campania / GettyImages
The bigger-than-life city
Naples is a multifaceted marvel. Whichever your style of travel, be prepared to be captivated by the city’s distinct energy and soul. And if you never want to say arrivederci, consider exploring more of Campania: the Amalfi coast, Capri and Ischia, Mount Vesuvius, the archaeological ruins of Pompeii and the Versailles-rivalling Reggia di Caserta are all within easy reach.
Atrani, Amalfi Coast / GettyImages
